(Naples, Pizzeria di Matteo) To get real Neapolitan pizza, you must go to Naples

The pizza from Pizzeria Di Matteo was the most expensive and inexpensive pizza we've ever eaten in our lives.  That statement requires a bit of explanation, I suppose.

Of course, there is no pizza like the pizza in Naples.  However, that's where Napolese fame sort of ends.  While it's commonly known that the Amalfi coast is gorgeous, and Capri is just a hop-skip-jump away, the tour books admit that Naples is gritty and rough, and can best be seen in about one day.  In other words, if you are staying in Rome, there is no reason to leave -- save for the pizza.

So that is what we did. 

We set out on a fast train from the train station (Roma Termini) to Naples.  Once we got there, we quickly learned that no one spoke English, and while I could say a fistful of Italian words, unfortunately I couldn't understand the Italian responses.

Duomo Napoli (Naples Cathedral)

After a tense discussion with the driver, he finally took us to the cathedral ("Duomo di Napoli") instead of the two hour tour of churches that my bad Italian seemed to initially indicate.

Locked arm in arm while staring at a glowing iPhone map, we carefully walked down a dirty, dark alleyway towards what I hoped was a real restaurant.  I looked at people in the eye, held my bag tightly, and cataloged the street names as we walked.  That's when I had a pleasant revelation. 

The world famous Via Dei Tribunali 

I remembered that while visiting Gina's cousin in Seattle about five years ago, she raved about a Napoletano-styled pizzeria in downtown Seattle -- complete with some unpronounceable Italian name -- and purported to be "just like the real thing."  The Seattle eatery was called Via Tribunali, which as it just so happens, is the same name of the street in Naples where we were walking and where Pizzeria di Matteo is located.  

Makes sense.

Antica Pizzeria E Friggitoria di Matteo

When we first arrived at the pizzeria, it was closed.  

Son of a....! 

In hindsight they were probably getting the ovens up to temperature.  I want to say they didn't open until noon or 1pm, but the timestamp on my receipt says 2:55pm, and I'm afraid I'm not much help there.

We fell back on our other two Italian passtimes:  Touring Italian churches and drinking Italian beer. 

We toured two churches:  The Duomo Cathedral, which is lovely if slightly forsaken (p.s. it has decent public restrooms), and the San Lorenzo Maggiore, which is one block from the pizzeria.  

With time still to kill, we found ourselves at the outdoor Wine Cafe at the Piazzette Divino Amore about two blocks away, which is the perfect place to pass the time.

Just as Pizzeria di Matteo was opening, it began to rain.  We put our name on the list, and waited outside with the others.  

At first glance, the place looks like a walk-up restaurant without seating, as the kitchen is practically outside.  But trust me, if you walk inside the kitchen, they will put your name on the list for one of the tables located on one of the three floors above.

Very large plates featuring very large pizzas

After a short, wet wait in the cobblestone street, they called our name and took us up to the top floor.  We ordered the Quattro Formagi (four cheese) pizza and the Salciccia (sausage) pizzas.  

The pizza is incredible, and not just because each is the size of your grandmother's Thanksgiving Turkey platter.  The dough was perfectly baked, charred on the bottom, but the crust is still steamy and warm.  The ingredients are fresh and plentiful.  If I had the room in my gullet, I would have tried the Margherita pizza and the Arancini (fried rice and cheese balls).  Next time, for sure.  

While waiting for our meals, what I can only describe as a gypsy tambourine player came into each room to entertain us.  Odd, but also somewhat charming.

I assure you I can finish.

The tour books will tell you that the residents of Naples are fans of one of two pizza places:  Either Pizzeria di Matteo or Pizzeria da Michele.  

We probably would have taken a latter train to stay in Naples for dinner and investigate if we were "Matteos" or "Micheles", but it was raining meatballs and we booked it back to Rome.

See.

As for the cost, here is the explanation.  After tallying two round-trip train tickets from Rome to Naples, cab fare to the restaurant, beers while waiting for Di Matteo to open, and umbrellas when it started raining, we surmised that our daytrip to Naples cost about €350.00. The pizza, however, was a steal at about €5.00 each.

Couple of tips:  Come hungry as you cannot leave any pizza on your plate.  It is cash only.  Pay the cashier instead of at your table.  "Service" is included.  Do not miss this place if you like pizza.

Antica Pizzeria E Friggitoria di Matteo | Via dei Tribunali, 94  80138 Naples, Italy | +081 455262